By Robin Long


Most aftermarket receivers provide preamp output from RCA jacks. In this situation, the signal is carried by an RCA patch cable from the receiver to the amp. If your receiver does not have preamp outputs, many amplifiers feature loudspeaker-level inputs, which have built-in converters which stage the loudspeaker-level signal down to a preamp-level signal suitable for the amp.

Although automobile amplifiers come with RCA input jacks, your inventory stereo may not support the choice to send audio through RCA outs. You can nevertheless join the amplifier with a "Line Level" connection. You connect one of the audio wires currently linked to your stereo into the amplifier's "Line Level" input jack. All you require is enough wire to make the link from your trunk's speaker to your own amplifier.

The black, or lined, cable will be the negative; the red will be the good. Give yourself enough slack so the bond will be secure, without the possibility of becoming unplugged. Join the other two ends of the speaker wire for the good () and negative (-) "Line Level Input" terminals on your amplifier. Be sure the " " and "-" wires are attached to the exact same polarity as the speakers.

In case your amp doesn't have loudspeaker-level inputs, a productive and inexpensive line output converter will allow you to step the loudspeaker-level signal down to preamp level. Then run an RCA patch cord from the converter to the amplifier.

By using the 2nd procedure get a line output converter (LOC). Tap the LOC inputs in your back channel speakers and run RCA's in the LOC to your own amp. The unit shown in the link also has a trigger wire that you simply connect with the remote terminal of your own amp. You may get a less expensive LOC and only run a switched 12V supply for the amp if you want.

It is essential to separate the patch cables from the electricity wires to prevent possible noise issues. Partially reinstall the radio in the dash (not all the way, in case you have to fix a problem later).

Remove the radio from the dash to access the turn on wire (normally a blue ). Strip the insulation off a small section of this wire coming from the radio (as pictured), wrap the turn on lead (included with the kit) around it, and solder it.




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